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Pool Janitor FAQ
(cont.)
until the pool is
clean.
I get no
suction when I try to vacuum...
Most systems require adjustment to the
valving to increase flow in the line
through which you are vacuuming. You may
want to close all the valves except the
one on the line you are vacuuming through. On some systems, closing too
many suction valves will cause the pump to cavitate, which occurs when it is starved for
water. If the pump begins to shudder and make interesting noises, open the valves until
this ceases.
If your suction still sucks, check that the filter is clean and
the pump basket has been cleaned. Before vacuuming debris into
the pump basket, always make sure the basket is locked into
place properly so that debris cannot bypass it and clog the
impeller.
My pump loses prime when I try to
vacuum...
If you notice that your pump begins to
draw in air when you connect the hose
into the skimmer, possibly drawing in so
much air that the pump loses its prime
of water, it probably originates from an
old, dry rotted hose with holes in it,
or a cavitating pump drawing air in through the plumbing or valving.
To check the hose, hold one end tightly against your
thigh while you make a tight seal with the other end around your mouth. Blow into the
hose; you should feel very strong resistance. If you can blow easily, the hose has one or
more holes or splits in it, and you may be able to hear the air being drawn through when
it's hooked up for vacuuming.
When a vacuum hose is hooked into the skimmer and
perhaps some valves are closed to increase suction, we are increasing the "vacuum
pressure" in the line, creating a front pressure on the pump. This can cause the pump
to draw air in places it normally wouldn't under lower pressure. This situation should be
corrected by locating the air source and making appropriate repairs.
(Repair info, see
pumps)
When I vacuum, the dirt passes right
through...
When vacuuming fine, silty dirt or debris, you
may notice a cloudy stream of dirt coming back into the pool via the return. This can
continue slowly, long after you stop vacuuming, and can create a frustrating cycle for the
pool janitor at your pool. More common in sand filters than in other types, the dirt can
be pushed right through the filter, especially one which may need a
sand replacement. Indeed, this situation may
indicate internal filter problems. It may
also indicate a problem with the filter control valve. Old, loose multiport or push-pull
valves can allow water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered. For more
info on
valves, click on link.
Another possibility is that the pump is oversized
for the filter, and is pushing the water so hard, it pushes dirt right through the filter
medium. A sand filter actually works a little better when it's a little dirty; the added
dirt helps to trap more dirt, so don't backwash prior to vacuuming a pool with a sand
filter. You may also use filter aids, added through the skimmer, which provide a
gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed to help trap dirt. Another tip is to vacuum to
waste, especially if the debris is a fine silt that can clog the
filter quickly. To do this, overfill the
pool first, and set the multiport valve to the 'Drain'/ 'Vacuum to Waste' position.
Roll out the backwash hose, and vacuum the dirt (and water) right out of the pool...to
waste.
My coping
and deck have become discolored...
Leaves and dirt may stain concrete
surfaces or, after removing the winter
cover, you may see a pronounced color
difference.
Pressure washing can remove these soils and
restore original brightness to concrete and coping stones. A light
acid washing on the
coping stones also works very well, and algae or mildew can be lifted by scrubbing in a
paste of calcium hypochlorite. Read all precautions before working with these dangerous
chemicals in this manner.
My tiles
have crusty white deposits...
Called efflorescence, this calcium
deposit usually originates from grout or
setting mortar. To remove, scrape it off
the tile/wall, and/or acid wash it.
There are products available such as CLR
(Calcium, Lime, Rust remover), which can
be purchased at your local hardware
store, will work well for such
tasks. Another method for
removing calcium deposits is the pumice
stone. Pumice is a light porous glassy
lava stone that can be rubbed over a
pool stain to remove it. You can get a
pumice stone that can attach to your
tele-pole or a pumice stone that has a
handle you can swim with. Works great on
cement stains, berry stains and paint.
My
plaster is stained...
Dirt, leaf tannins, rust and other
minerals can stain the finish of your
plastered pool. If the stain is organic;
left from a leaf or acorn for example, a
small amount of
granular chlorine added
at that location and allowed to settle
on the stain will usually remove it
instantly. Other non-organic stains will
not be removed by chlorine. Do not place
chlorine tablets directly into the
pool...they will stain and etch the
plaster.
If chlorine doesn't work, acid usually will.
Draining and
acid washing will remove a
thin layer of plaster (and stains), exposing fresh, new looking plaster beneath. A
No-Drain acid wash can also be performed, with varying results. For localized stains , a
stain master tool can be used to deliver
acid directly to the stain. Stains can also be sanded with
pumice stones or wet/dry
sandpaper.
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