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Kreepy Krauly Help
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Pool Surface
Pool Terminology
Water Problems
Your pool will naturally lose some water to evaporation, some to splash-out and some to backwash wastewater. You may also gain water from rainfall. My rule of thumb is that if you're routinely adding more than two inches of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak. It is worth spending some time and money to repair.
Pools are meant to be watertight but sealants will deteriorate while other parts of your pool shift and settle or just plain wear out. Pools can leak through any of the fittings or accessories, plumbing, or even right through the shell. It is important to repair leaks, not only to save water, heat, and chemicals, but also to prevent undermining pool structural components and washing away fill dirt.
Leak detection is a highly specialized branch of the industry. A list of independent pool professionals who specialize in leak detection is available a www.PoolLeak.info. Ninety five percent of all phone calls I get from worried pool owners about a leak turn out to be inexpensive to repair. So relax, if you can't take care of the problem yourself a professional will be equipped to do so for you. If you suspect a leak, review the following things before calling for service:
Is the
pool leaking only with the equipment on?
This may indicate a pressure-side return leak. With
the filter pump on, the plumbing on the pressure
side is under pressure. This can open up small
drips into spraying gushers. Check the waste
or backwash line for water consistently running. One
inch of your pool water can equal 500 gallons.
Is the pool leaking only with the equipment off?
This usually
indicates a suction-side leak. With
the filter
pump on, the plumbing
on the suction side is under vacuum. Air can
be drawn in through otherwise leaking voids. You
may notice air in the pump basket (if you have
a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines,
or air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank. Use
tape or a pencil to mark water levels. Is
the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed o-ring?
Does the pool leak all the time?
This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing,
but turns a suspicious eye on the shell of the
pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears
in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line
and look real closely inside of the skimmer(s). The
most common leak we fix is a separation between
the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This
is easily fixed with some pool
putty. If you see something that looks
like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator
test reagent near
it with your pump shut off and water still. See
if the dye is sucked into the crack. Under
water lights can and do leak as well. Especially
the conduit that
runs from the light niche to the junction box. Filling
the opening of the conduit in the back of the light
niche with putty, silicone,
or caulk is
a way to fix this problem.
Are there leaks at the equipment pad?
Look closely at the filter, pump, heater, and
valves. Check the ground for moisture. Turn
the pump on and off looking closely for spraying
water when the pump is turned off.
Does the water seem to stabilize at any particular level?
You may be able to close the skimmer valve
and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer.
If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer
(although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater
light is a common leak
source. If the water stabilizes, dye test
around this level very carefully. Look for
small debris which may have been sucked into the
crack or void. This is a good indication of
a leak.
Are there any wet areas around the pool?
Take a walk around the pool's edge and between
the pool and the equipment pad. Check for wet soil
and eroded areas.
Is your pool equipped with a vinyl liner?
If so, there
are special considerations. Look for sinkholes
where sand under the liner may have washed away. Look
for tears or separations around all fittings: skimmer,
returns, cleaner line, etc. Pay close attention
to steps and corners, where the liner may be stretched
more than normal. If an animal had the misfortune
to fall into your pool you may notice claw marks
(tears) just below the water line. Spending
time under water with a mask may be required to
find a small leak in the liner. When liners
become old they may have many pinhole leaks. There
can always be more than one leak.
Unsure of your evaporation rate?
Place a bucket of water beside
the pool and mark both the water in the bucket
and the pool water level. Wait 24 hours
then check the loss of both. If the pool
loses more water than the bucket, then
you have a leak.
Prices for leak detection and
repair will vary widely. Of course, charges
will be lowered with your help of uncovering
the facts (see above) needed to determine the
leaks location. Average charges range
from $200 or more depending on the extent
of your leak. Higher prices will be realized
for below ground work; however, many leaks
are fixed within one hour. Many pools
leak in more than one area so monitoring is
important after any repair is made. There
may be additional charges for cutting and replacing
concrete and for SCUBA (under-water) work. Be
sure to visit our New Leak
Detection Section for leak detection and
repair items.