Pumps & Motors (cont.)
to INSTALL an entire new pump
in a new pump motor...
the pipes going into the front of the
existing (old) pump, and the pipe coming
out of the top. Important: Choose your
cut location so as to allow room on either
side of the cut to glue on a repair coupling.
Remove the wires and the conduit adapter
from the rear of the motor. Remove the
MTA fittings threaded into the front
and top of the old pump. Using Teflon
tape and perhaps also silicone
sealant, thread in the fittings you
removed from the old pump. Note: Do Not
Over-tighten, turn only 1 1/2 turns past
hand tight. Using rubber mission couplings,
PVC unions or simple slip x slip couplings, reconnect the
pipe you cut. On PVC fittings, use a
good primer and good, fresh PVC
glue for pressure applications.
up a new pump motor...
screw in the conduit adapter onto the
back of the motor. This adapter
is usually removed from the old pump
and screwed into the 3/4"
threaded hole where the wires enter the back
of the motor. Some motors offer an additional port
of entry on the top for wiring flexibility.
Remove the back of the motor and run the
wires in through the adapter, and tighten
down the threaded connector to secure the
wires and keep out moisture and insects. Notice
where the wires enter the back of the motor,
on the right side, a terminal board that
has 2 brass screws for clamping down the
2 wires (lines) coming in. It doesn't
matter which wire goes to which screw. Above
the terminal board, there is a green screw
that is for clamping down the ground wire.
All pump motors are wired to receive 230
Volts from the factory. That is, 2 lines
(wires) carrying 115 Volts each. So, you
need to know if you have 115 Volts coming
in, or if it's 230 Volts. Usually 230 Volt
service will have 2 wires of the same color,
(and one green ground wire), while 115 Volt
service will have perhaps one red (hot),
one white (neutral), and one green. You should
use a meter to be sure, but you could just
look at the breaker. If 2 of the wires come
off of one breaker, then you have 230 Volts.
If one is connected to a breaker, and the
other to the 'neutral' Buss bar, then it
is 115 Volt service. Or look at the voltage
plate on the old motor and see how it was
hooked up. Is it matching the Low Voltage
diagram (115 Volt), or matching the high
voltage diagram (230 Volt)?
If you have 230 Volt service, hook up the
wires coming into the motor to the
brass terminals described above. If
you have 115 Volt service, follow the
instructions on the motor label to
switch the motor to receive 115 Volt.
This is a very easy switch of only
one wire. Again, the motor comes factory
wired for 230 Volt. If you are connecting
115 Volts to it, then switch the motor
first. Putting 230 Volts into a 115
Volt motor can damage the windings,
and perhaps fail the motor. After switching
the motor to 115 Volts, connect the
power wires to the brass terminals
as described above (again it doesn't
matter which wire goes to which screw).
the motor (not
the plastic wet end, just the motor)
learned how to remove and break down
a pump and motor in the previous sections,
replacing any of the components is simply
a matter of disassembling the pump down
to the component that needs replacement,
getting a replacement part, and reassembling
the unit. Of course, if the entire pump
and motor is to be replaced, you purchase
the replacement as a unit and plumb it
in as previously described.
the motor will trip the circuit breaker
when you try to start it. If this happens
it is usually because there is something
wrong with the motor; however, it could
be a bad breaker or one that is simply
undersized for the job and has finally
worn out. To replace the motor here is
down the unit as described in
the section on changing a seal.
Remove the shaft extender by
removing the Allen-Head setscrews
and pulling the extender off
the motor shaft. Sometimes this
might need persuasion. Use your
large flat-blade screwdriver
to pry the extender away from
the motor body. Sometimes corrosion
will eat away at the setscrews
and extender - if it is too tough
to remove, replace it.
sliding the shaft extender on the
new motor, clean the motor shaft
with a fine emery cloth such as
you might have in your copper pipe
solder kit. Apply a light coat
lube to the shaft. When you
put the extender on the motor shaft,
the setscrews go into a groove
that runs along the shaft. This
groove allows the screws to grip
and not slide around the shaft.
slide the new extender in place,
lining up the setscrews along
the channel, but do not tighten
the setscrews. When you have
reassembled the bracket and seal
plate, seal, and impeller, you
can adjust the impeller to just
barely clear the seal plate face,
then tighten the setscrews. Be
sure the impeller is screwed
tightly onto the shaft extender
before making this adjustment.
If it is loose, when the motor
starts it will tighten the impeller,
by turning it tighter against
the extender, thereby tightening
it against the seal plate, seizing
up the unit.
the shaft extender with your
pliers or 3/8 - inch box wrench
and lay a rag over the impeller.
Firmly hand tighten it. Reassemble
the remaining pump parts and/or
re-plumb the entire unit back
wiring instructions above, in previous
section on installing new pumps.
always try to stress to pool owners that
a lot of air in the pump or loss of prime
problems are due to lack of lubrication
on the pump lid o-ring. Lubricants like Magic
Lube (Teflon based) or Jack's Lube
are always a great choice. Remember that
a little dab will do the job. Never use
a petroleum based product (i.e. Vaseline)
for lubrication on o-rings. Inspect the
pump o-ring for cracks, splits, or pinch
marks. Finding little problems can prevent
big problems from occurring.
pumps have seals to prevent water from
leaking out along the motor shaft.
When these wear out due to overheating,
vibration or a sudden change in water
pressure - you will need to replace
shaft seal. The first thing to
do is to turn off the electricity to
the motor at the breaker.
access this seal for replacement,
remove the four bolts that hold
the pump halves together, it
is not necessary to remove the
entire pump from the plumbing
the motor and pull it and the bracket
away from the pump
Wiggle it slightly from side to
side as you pull back to help break