you have a Top Mount Multiport, you may
need to cut some pipes to remove the valve
(you can reconnect them later with unions
or couplings.) Once these pipes are cut,
the clamp band or bolts connecting the valve to
the filter is removed, and the valve pulls
straight up and off. Plug, tape, or cover
the standpipe so you don't spill sand in
it. Then you can use a shop vacuum to suck
out the sand, or you can use a small cup
to scoop out the sand. If you have a side mount filter valve, you will remove the dome on top of the tank. Once inside, grab the upper manifold pipe firmly, with the diffuser on it, and rotate it out of the way, to the left or right.
very careful as you scoop or suck, not
to knock or break the laterals at the bottom
of the tank. They can be brittle when the
get older, and it may be wise to replace
laterals at the time you replace the
filter sand. Use a hose to wash out the
sand beneath the laterals. When the tank
is empty of sand, replace the drain assembly,
using silicone sealant and/or teflon tape on the threads.
Then add enough water to cover the laterals,
so the new sand pouring in won't crack
them. Again, if you have the top mounted
multiport, cover the standpipe opening.
If you have a side mounted filter valve,
gently push the intake baffle to one side,
or wrap the baffle with a small plastic
bag to keep the sand from entering the
pipe as you pour it in.
it in! Use only specially graded pool
filter sand; #20 silica sand, 45-55
mm. To add new sand, place the bag over the hole and use a razor knife to cut a large slit in the bag above the hole. On top mounted multiport filters, use
care to keep the standpipe centered and on the bottom of the
tank. After each bag of sand is added,
make sure it is still centered . It may
be useful to have a helper hold the standpipe
in place while the sand is added. Wear a safety mask or control your breathing as you pour in the sand. Silica sand dust can be hazardous.
the recommended amount of sand only;
more is not better! If the required amount of sand is not listed on the tank label, contact your dealer or manufacturer.
Most tanks are filled only about 2/3
of the way full, to leave enough
"freeboard" space on top. When
full, lube o-rings
and reassemble filter top. Make sure lid
is very secure, lids that blow off
can be very dangerous. It's a good idea to replace
the o-ring on the filter domes.
the filter is started up, start up on "RINSE" setting
first (if you have a multiport valve).
Then backwash and rinse again. If you have
a push pull valve, backwash first. This
final step will prevent putting a lot of "sand
dust" into the pool after a sand change.
filter tanks rarely leak themselves, however
leaks often occur in and around the multiport
interface. A common complaint is that water
is leaking out of the backwash port of
the multiport (six position) valve. Slight
adjustments of the handle may temporarily
solve this problem. A more permanent repair
may necessitate replacement of the spider
gasket inside of the multiport. You
may also have leakage up around the middle
of the handle on the valve, which external
adjustments rarely fix. This usually requires
replacement of a Teflon washer and sometimes
the spring as well.
may have a push pull valve or slide valve
as it is sometimes called instead of a
multiport valve. Leaks can occur
through the top of the index plate, or
out of the backwash line. This is a easy
inspection to determine what o-rings need
to be replaced. Leaks can also occur at
the bulkhead unions where the valve attaches
to the side of the filter, or around the
threads on a top-mounted multiport. The
drain plug can leak if not secured tightly
or properly sealed.
valve repair. Usually a one hour job, plus
internal valve components; gaskets or springs.
You can find replacement parts for filters
on our filter parts page,
just find out the make and model of your
filter, go to our filter
parts page, and
click on the filter you have.
they don't last forever. But almost. A
new filter may be in order if your current
filter is outdated (15-20 yrs old) and
difficult to use or get parts for. If the
filter tank has cracked, usually from freeze
damage or possibly from closing off return
valves while the pump is running, a new
filter is in order. Replacement is
usually fairly simple, with just a few
plumbing fittings needed.
How to Select a Sand Filter
With filters bigger is always better (not true for pumps). The more square footage of filter area, or the larger the filter grids are, the longer the time will be in between cleanings. A rule of thumb is to buy 1.0 sq ft of filter area per 10,000 gallons of pool water. The 3.1 sq ft sand filter is the standard size for most inground pools. Larger pools, (over 30,000), may want to use a 4.9 sq ft. sand filter, like the TA-100 by Pentair or the S310T by Hayward.
Aside from pool size in gallons, other factors include the amount of debris the pool will receive and the usage of the pool. Dirtier and more active pools need more filtration. Also look at your pump size, and match the flow rate of the pump, from the pump flow chart, to the design flow rate of the filter. If you push too much water into an undersized filter, the dirt trapping ability of the DE is compromised and the grids may become damaged.
One other factor that should influence your opinion is the availability of replacement parts. It may be best to purchase something by Jandy, Pentair or Hayward, with a large amount of parts in distribution. Smaller manufacturers may not have quick access to filter parts when you need them most.